

#Journey to the North, August 7th, 1708


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Journey to the North, August 7th, 1708
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Author: Samuel Molyneux
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Robert M. YoungElectronic edition compiled and proof-read by Beatrix Färber

Funded by University College, Cork 1. First draft.Extent of text: 
7000 words#### Publication


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#### Notes

'Cousin Dopping' mentioned by Molyneux was Samuel Dopping, a son of Anthony Dopping, (1643–1697). Anthony Dopping was Church of Ireland bishop of Meath, and married Jane Molyneux (a sister of Samuel Molyneux's father). Samuel Dopping was elected MP for Armagh in 1695, 1703, and 1714, and for Trinity College in 1715 (see S. J. Connolly's article on Anthony Dopping in the Oxford DNB). 'Mr Connelly' of Newton Lemnavady is William Connolly (1662–1729), Speaker of the Irish House of Commons, and, at his death, the richest man in Ireland (see Patrick McNally's article in the Oxford DNB). 'Mr Richardson' mentioned in connection with Legacorry, or Rich Hill, was Major Edward Richardson. More information about Rich Hill (or Richhill) can be found on the website of the Richhill Building Preservation Trust.

#### Sources


**Manuscript Source**2. Dublin, Trinity College Library, MS 883/2.
**Editions**2. See below.
3. W. H. Patterson (ed), Proceedings of the Belfast Natural History and Philosophical Society, 1874/75, 35–41.
**Further reading**2. Gerard Boate, Ireland's Naturall History (London 1652. Reprinted as 'Gerard Boate's natural history of Ireland', edited, with an introduction, by Thomas E. Jordan, New York 2006). [Available on CELT.]
3. Thomas Dinely, Observations on a Tour through the Kingdom of Ireland in 1681 (Dublin 1858, reprinted in Kilkenny Archaeological Society's Journal, Second Series, 4 (1856–57) 143–46, 170–88; 5 (1858–59) 22–32, 55–56; 7 (1862–63) 38–52, 103–109, 320–38; 8 (1864–66) 40–48, 268–90; 425–46; 9 (1867) 73–91, 176–204).
4. Edwyn Sandys, Draught (and Engraving) of Giants Causeway, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society 20 (London 1698).
5. Thomas Molyneux, 'A Letter from Dr. Thomas Molyneux to Dr. Martin Lister, Fellow of the Colledge of Physicians and R. S., containing some additional observations on the Giant's Causeway in Ireland', Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society, for June 1695, No. 241, vol. 20 (London 1698) 209–223; doi 10.1098/rstl.1698.0041.
6. James Ware, The antiquities and history of Ireland (Dublin 1705).
7. Thomas Molyneux, A Discourse concerning the Danish Mounts, Forts, and Towers in Ireland (Dublin 1725).
8. William Petty, A geographical description of the kingdom of Ireland, newly corrected & improv'd by actual observations. Containing one general map of the whole kingdom with 4 provincial and 32 county maps, (. . .) The whole being laid down from the best maps viz. Sr. Wm. Petty's, Mr. Pratt's, &c. with a description of each county collected from the best accounts extant (London 1728).
9. Sir Henry Piers, 'A Chorographical description of the County of Westmeath, written A.D. 1682 by Sir Henry Piers, of Tristernaght, Baronet,' in: Charles Vallancy, Collectanea de rebus Hibernicis, vol. 1. (Dublin: Thomas Ewing) 1770.
10. Walter Harris, The antient and present state of the County of Down. Containing a chorographical description, with the natural and civil history of the same ... With a survey of the new canal; as also, a new and correct map of the County. Dublin, Printed by A. Reilly, for Edward Exshaw 1744. (Reprinted Ballinahinch 1979).
11. Thomas Wright, Louthiana: or, an introduction to the antiquities of Ireland: In upwards of ninety views and plans: representing, with proper explanations, the principal ruins, curiosities, and antient dwellings, in the county of Louth. Divided into three books. Taken upon the spot by Thomas Wright (. . .) Engraved by Paul Foudrinier (London 1758).
12. John Mitchell, The present state of Great Britain and North America, with regard to agriculture, population, trade, and manufactures, impartially considered (. . .) (London: printed for T. Becket and P.A. De Hondt, 1767).
13. Capel Molyneux, An account of the family and descendants of Sir Thomas Molyneux, ed. T. Phillips (Evesham 1820).
14. Samuel Lewis, Topographical Dictionary of Ireland (London 1837) (available online at http://www.libraryireland.com/topog/index.php).
15. Giraldus Cambrensis, Topographia Hibernica, 1188: J. F. Dimock (ed.), Topographia Hibernica et expugnatio Hibernica, Rolls Series 21. Vol. 5 of Giraldi Cambrensis Opera (London 1867).
16. Alice Effie Murray, History of the Commercial and Financial Relations between England and Ireland from the Period of the Restoration (London 2nd edition 1907). [Available online at CELT, includes rich details on economy and trade in the eighteenth century].
17. Walter G. Strickland, A Dictionary of Irish Artists (Dublin 1913) [available online at http://www.libraryireland.com; see entry on Edwyn Sandys].
18. Éamonn Ó Tuathail, 'Arthur Brownlow and his MSS', Irish Book Lover 24 (1936) 26–28.
19. A. M. Fraser, 'The Molyneux family', Dublin Historical Record, 16/1 (1960–61) 9–15.
20. K. Theodore Hoppen, The common scientist in the seventeenth century: a study of the Dublin Philosophical Society, 1683–1708 (1970), p. 272.
21. James Stevens Curl, The Londonderry plantation, 1609–1914: the history, architecture, and planning of the estates of the City of London and its livery companies in Ulster (Chichester/Sussex 1986).
22. Bernadette Cunningham and Raymond Gillespie, 'An Ulster settler and his Irish manuscripts', Éigse 21 (1986) 27–36. (On Arthur Brownlow of Lurgan).
23. Jean Agnew, Belfast merchant families in the seventeenth century (Dublin 1996).
24. William H. Crawford, The management of a major Ulster estate in the late eighteenth century: the eighth earl of Abercorn and his Irish agents (Dublin 2001).
25. Kieran Clendinning, 'The Brownlow family and the development of the town of Lurgan in the 17th century, English origin and the Ulster plantation, part 1', Seanchas Ardmhacha 20:1 (2004) 100–123.
26. Kieran Clendinning, 'The Brownlow family and the development of the town of Lurgan in the 17th century : Part II — William Brownlow and the formation of the Manor of Brownlowsderry', Seanchas Ardmhacha 20:2 (2005) 106–132.
27. C. J. Woods, Travellers' accounts as source-material for Irish historians (Dublin 2009) no. 9.
28. Arthur Chapman, 'Lurgan's early Quaker settlement', Review: journal of the Craigavon Historical Society 9:3 (2010–11) 14–15. (On Arthur Brownlow of Lurgan).
29. Anne Saunders, The London Letters of Samuel Molyneux, 1712–13 (London 2011).
30. Bernadette Cunningham and Raymond Gillespie, 'The circulation of manuscripts in Ireland, 1625–1725', in: James Kelly and Ciarán Mac Murchaidh (eds), Irish and English: essays on the Irish linguistic and cultural frontier, 1600–1900 (Dublin 2012).
31. Brenda Collins, 'The Conway estate in County Antrim: an example of seventeenth-century 'English' building styles in Ireland', in: Olivia Horsfall Turner (ed), 'The mirror of Great Britain': national identity in seventeenth-century British architecture (Reading 2012) 165–186.
32. Richard Sharpe, Roderick O'Flaherty's Letters to William Molyneux, Edward Lhwyd, and Samuel Molyneux, 1696–1709 (Dublin 2013).
33. On Samuel Molyneux, see Oxford DNB, online edition at http://www.oxforddnb.com/view/article/18925.
**The edition used in the digital edition**2. **Robert M. Young**, Journey to the North, August 7th, 1708 in Historical notices of old Belfast and its vicinity. , Belfast, Marcus Ward & Co., Limited, Royal Ulster Works (1895) page 152–160

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Created: By Samuel Molyneux (1689–1728) son of William Molyneux (1656–1698)
 Date range: 7 August to 24 August 1708.#### Use of language


##### Language: [EN] The text is in English.


##### Language: [LA] Some words and phrases are in Latin.


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#### Corpus of Electronic Texts Edition: E700002-002


### Journey to the North, August 7th, 1708: Author: Samuel Molyneux




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p.152


Journey to ye North
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August 7th, 1708.
Left **Dublin**, and came in 3 hours and 1/2 to **Bellough**, a small village, thro' a very flat, open corn Countrey, good cawsey Roads, passing thro' **Santry** and **Swords**, which Last is a Borough, and seems to have been a place of some Antiquity, for severall old Ruins that are here, and, among others, of one of the old round Steeples, which stands near the church. Having dined at **Bellough**, we went on thro' the same kind of Countrey, and much about the same time thro' **Balruddery**, **Julianstown**, Bridge on the Nanny water (which boards the County of Meath from Dublin) to **Droghedagh**. **Droghedagh** is a pretty Large town, Larger Houses, and every way liker **Dublin** than any one I have seen in Ireland. It stands on the famous River **Boyne**, which is navigable within Walls to Boats of 40 or 50 ton. Its Walls and Fortifications are very old and out of Repair, having suffered much, as have also most of the Houses then standing, in its Siege by **O. Cromwel**. Here is, on the South side the River, on a height w*hi*ch commands the Town, and from whence you have a fair Prospect of it, a remarkable Danes' Mount, as it seems to have been, but to which there are now built 5 or 6 half Bastions of Stone Work, with a Ditch round it, by **Cromwel**l, as they Relate. From **Drougheda** we


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went up the River **Boyne**, on the North side, to **Nouth** in two hours. About half way up you pass by ye Remarkable Foard where was performed the famous Pass of the **Boyne**. Here yet remains a broad Foard or two; and on t'other side the River the Ruins of the Irish battery, which, with a few Sculls, are the only marks of this happy place of action.


Sunday.
  

having spent the morning at Knouth, after Dinner, Co*u*s*i*n **S. Dopping** and I went on cross the country, in about three hours, to **Ardee**. The way is mostly in the County of Louth, fine open sheep-walk, all hills and Dales, making from a height a most pleasant prospect, such variety of fine risings, with some few scattered inclosures and Gentlemen's Houses everywhere presenting themselves. **Ardee** is a compact little Town — a Burrough — and seems to have been once a place of Good strength, for the many strong old castles and Double walls it has. From thence, three hours more Brought us to **Dundalk**, an ugly Town, and, I think, remarkable in nothing but for an extraordinary good Inn here, as good as most in England.


Monday
  

We designed for **Ardmagh**, and went 16 mile towards it, mostly on the very wild mountains, **The Fews**. These Mountains are of a Boggy, heathy Soile, the Road thro' them of a Rocky Gravel; in all this way meet but one house, and nothing like Corn, Meddow, or Enclosures. We baited on them at the Second House, which is called black Ditch, where is also a small foot Barrack, but without any Soldiers. Here was miserable Entertainment, not so much as tolerable Grass within two mile of 'em. From hence two or three miles brings you to the End of the Mountains, and then you enter into a pleasant Enclosed Corn Countrey, which in 5 or 6 miles brings you thro' very new made Roads to **Ardmagh**.


**Ardmagh** is a very pretty Town and Burrough situated on a Hill. The Cathedral, which is yet in the same place where St. Patrick first fixed his See, stands at the highest part of the Town, and from whence you have all round you a very beautifull prospect of as well an Improved and enclosed Countrey as can be. The choir of this Cathedral has been Lately rebuilt and much adorned by the **Dean Drelincourt**, who has wainscotted and painted it all at his own cost, so that it is now, I think, handsomer than any in **Dublin**. Here is also a very handsome free School now building, and good Barracks. Cous*in* **Dopping** was this Evening Sworn a Burgess of ye Town, and I was complimented with my freedome.


Tuesday
  

We went to my estate at **Castle Dillon**, and so to **Legacorry**, which is a very pretty Village belonging to **Mr. Richardson**. From hence **Mr. Chichester**, a Relation of my **Lord Donnegall**'s, invited us to dine with him at the house where he lives, belonging to one Mr. Workman, within half a mile of **Portadown**, [space left blank] miles from **Ardmagh**. Mr. Workman shewed us here vast plantations of Fir Trees of all different ages from the seed. They thrive here mighty well, and this Gentleman makes a considerable Gain in this way. After Dinner we proceeded on our journey towards **Belfast**, where **Mr. Chichester** promised to accompany us. We passed thro' **Portadown**, a pretty village situated on the River [space for a word left blank] , and where


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so many protestants were drowned in 41 Rebellion by the Irish. Here our hoses passed over in a wherry, the Bridge which they were then a-Building, very Large and handsome, being not yet finished. From hence we went on thro' a mightly pretty English-like enclosed countrey, and well planted with Large Trees, to **Mr. Brownlow**'s Town, **Lurgan**, [space left blank] miles from **Ardmagh**, situated within half a mile of the South Banks of **Lough Neagh**. This Town is at present the greatest mart of Linnen Manufactories in the North, being almost entirely peopled with Linnen Weavers, And all by the care and cost of **Mr. Brownlow**, who on his first Establishing the trade here, bought up everything that was brought to the market of Cloath and lost at first considerably; but at Length the thing fixing itself, he is now by the same methods a considerable Gainer. This Gentleman is more curious than ordinary, and has by him several old Irish Manuscripts which he can Read and understand very well. He shewed me one in Parchment of the Bible (as I remember), pretended to be written by St. Patrick's own hand, but this must be a Fable. This Gentleman is not satisfied about the Petrifying Quality of **Lough Neagh** waters, and seems rather to esteem the Stones found on its Banks to be lapides sui Generis than Petrifactions. Having Supped with him we lay at an Inn.


Wednesday
  

We went together towards Lisbon. About 2 or 3 miles from **Lurgan** is a village called **Maherlin**, where liveth the **B*isho*p of **Dromore****. Here I stopped to a visit to my old Tutor, **Mr. Redman**, who lives with his Uncle **Cuppaidge**, Minist*e*r of the Place. From hence, I followed 'em, and passed by **Moyragh**, a fine seat belonging to **S*i*r Arthur Royden**'s Family, Leaving **Warrenston** and **Hillsborough** to the Right, thro' the fine Improved County of **Down**, which, with **Ardmagh**, are the finest Counties in the North, to Lisbon, [space left blank] miles. Here we designed to have waited on the **B*isho*p of **Down****, who lives within a small mile to the Town; but he being not at home, we spent our Time in viewing the Miserable Ruines of the Late Fire which happened here, and not a house in the Town Escaped. If the story of the Phoenix be ever true, sure 'tis in this Town. For here you see one of the beautifullest Towns perhaps in the 3 kingdoms — all Brick houses, slated, of one bigness, all new, and almost finished, rising from the most terrible Rubish that can be Imagined. When I stood in the Church Yard, I thought I never had seen so dreadfull a Scene before, all round me the church burnt to the Ground, The tombstones all cracked with the fire. Vast Trees that stood round the Church Yard Burnt to Trunks. **Lord Conway** (to whom this town belongs) — his House, tho' at a distant from all the rest of the Town, burnt to Ashes, and all his Gardens



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in the same condition, with the Trees in the Church Yard. 'Tis scarcely conceivable such dismall Effects should arise from so small a cause and in so short a time as they relate. Only Some Turf Ashes thrown on a Dunghill, which a brisk Wind blowing towards the Town raised and threw on the Shingles of the next house, which, being like Spunk, by a long Drought of Weather which had then happened, took fire, and the Wind continuing what it had begun, the whole Town, in half an hour, was irrecoverably in Flames, insomuch that this accident happening whilst they were at Church on a Sunday morning, by 4 the fire was extinguished, And not a house and but a few of their Goods Remained in being. Its Rise is likely to be as suddain as its fall. **Lord Conway** has renewed all the Leases, for a year or two, Rent free; gives them as much Wood as they please to cut of his own Woods, which are near, and obliges them to build Regular, so that if the story of the Phoenix be ever true, sure 'tis in this Town. This Town was formerly the greatest Linnen manufactory of the North before the Fire; now much removed to **Lurgan** and other adjacent places. However, I do not doubt but when 'tis quite rebuilt, 'twill be rather in a more thriving condition than before. From hence we went on [space left blank] miles to **Bellfast**, thro' a Countrey, all the way from **Ardmagh**, Extreamly pleasant, well Improved, and Inhabited by English. **Belfast** is a very handsome, thriving, well-peopled Town; a great many new houses and good Shops in't. The Folks seemed all very busy and employed in trade, the Inhabitants being for the most part merchants, or employ'd under 'em, in this Sea Port, which stands, conveniently enough, at the very inner part of **Carrickfergus**. Thro' the Town there Runns a small Rivulet, not much better than that they call the **Glibb** in **Dublin**, which, however, is of great use for bringing their goods to the Key when the Tide serves. Here we saw as Dismall Effects of another Fire as that in **Lisbon**, which here, in the night, had Lately burnt a house belonging to the **Lord Donnegall**'s Family (whose Town this is), with three Young Ladys, sisters to the **present Earl**. It stands seperate from the Rest of the Houses, which as it prevented the Flames going further, so it cut of timely Relief in the midst of courts and gardens, which are an Extreamly noble old Improvement, made by old **S*i*r Arthur Chichester**, who was, about 100 years ago, the Establisher of this Family, and Indeed of the whole Kingdome, Especially the North, by planting English Colonies, and civilizing the Irish. These Improvements are all Inclosed in a kind of Fortification, being Designed for a place of



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Strength as well as Pleasure, and is a lasting Monument of this kind of the greatness of its founder. Here we saw a very good manufacture of Earthen Ware, which comes nearest **Delft** of any made in Ireland, and really is not much short of it. 'Tis very clean and pretty, and universally used in the North, and I think not so much owing to any Peculiar happiness in their clay, but rather to the manner of beating and mixing it up. Here they have Barracks for [space left] we lay here this night, And the next day —


Thursday —
  

Dined with the Soveraign, **Mr. McCartney**, where we were made free of the Town. After Dinner we went on towards **Carrickfergus**, about two or three mile from Town. We struck off from the Road, which runs all Long the Sea, to view a Park here belonging to the **Lords of **Donnegal****. Here they carryed us up a pretty high Hill, where is a very pleasant Fountain, well shaded with Trees, and from whence you have a very fine Prospect of **Carrickfergus**, the Bay, and **Belfast**, which from hence makes a very good shew. Returning to the Road, about half way to **Belfast**, we parted with **Mr. Chichester**, and continued our journey to **Carrickfergus**.


Friday
  

**Carrickfergus** is a place of good natural strength, situated on a Rocky Promontory which runs out into the Sea; not so big, clean, or thriving a Town in any wise as **Belfast**. It has litle in't remarkable but **L*or*d Donnegall**'s monument in the Church, which is very rich and great; the great Castle belonging to the Crown, and a most noble old house of **Lord Donnegall**'s Family built by **S*i*r Arthur Chichester**, Extreamly great and noble, but wanting the Gardens at **Belfast**, which, were they joyned, would make beyond comparison the finest Improvement in Ireland. It has a fine situation fronting the Bay, all the Grand*eu*r and regularities of a modern building, and shews the great spirit of the builder; but What he set up is now making hast to fall to the Ground. From **Carrickfergus** we went thro' a wild country in about 4 hours to **Antrim**; we passed thro' **Castle Norton**, a small village.


**Antrim** is a pretty good Town situated on the North East Banks of **Lough Neagh**. It enjoys a considerable Linnen Trade at present. Here **Lord Mazarreen** has a pretty good house, and good Improvements about it, where he lives. We saw there the Largest piece of **Lough Neagh** Stone that I have ever seen; 'twas as thick as one's body, Irregularly shaped, perfectly like ye Root of a Tree, the Trunk and Small branches of the Root Loped off. This piece, not only for its bigness and shape, but also for the grain of it too, appeared the most like Stone of any I have seen. His Lordship assures me there are several such like sticking in ye Banks of the Lough, and that he does not doubt but that this Lough has this petrifying



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Quality; nay, that he could have shewn me, had he been at **Antrim** when I was there, a piece of which half is a Stone, and half is yet perfect Wood. **Mr. Maclean**, Minis*te*r of the Town, gave me here certain Stones of a whitish Brown Colour, of a gritty Substance, much the biggness and shape of a Potatoe, save that they all have litle perturbance, by which, he assures me, they stick in the Banks of this Lough near the surface of the Water, the rest standing clear out, and that they there are found to grow till their Weight, and the Water washing away the Earth where they stick, they fall to the bottome. Of these stones the **Arch B*ishop*e of **Dublin**** gave me several before, and related the acco*un*t of them.


Having seen in the minuts of the **Dublin Society** and acco*un*t of Fish called **Dolleyn**, a sort of Herring or Trout peculiar to this Lough (which is also mentioned in Giraldus Cambrensis Topog. Hiber., I Inquired for it At **Antrim**, but could not get the sight of one, tho' this was the Season of Catching them, and they told me there had been several Boat Loads brought in there the Market Day before, but were bought up for drying. From **Antrim** we went to **Shane's Castle** — **Mr. O'Neill**'s — a very antient building about one mile from **Antrim**, situated on the very banks of **Lough Neagh**, so near that it and ye Garden Walls are washed by the Water, and from hence arrived in 4 or 5 hours thro' a miserable, wild, Barbarous, boggy countrey, to as bad a Lodging in a poor Village called **Maghereoghill**.


Saturday
  

Having Passed the Night but ill, we were Soon on our journey, and arrived early thro' a wild, open Countrey at **Ballymony** — a pretty, clean, English-like Town belonging to the **Earl of **Antrim****, who has here in possession a prodigious scope of Land, I believe of some 30 or 40 miles in Length. Here we tooke a Guide to the **Gyant's Cawsey**. The Land about it, & particularly the head Land under which it Lyes, is very good Sheepwalk, and lies very high, so that you have from hence, as indeed you have from most of the hills in this Easterly part of the North, a fair prospect of several parts of **Scotland** and the **Isle of Man**. You go down to the Cawsey by a very narrow path along the side of the Hill. I carryed along with me the print of the Cawsey after **Mr. Sandys**' Draught from the Philosophical Transactions, as also Dr. Molyneuxe's Discourse of it in a Letter to Dr. Lister, also in the Transactions, and compared them both on the place as strictly as I could. The Draught is pretty well as to the Cawsey itself, bit not so Exact in the face of the Hill and the Organs or Loomes as it should be; and indeed it does not repressent ye Cawsey itself to run from the Hill so as it does. I think it would be as necessary and usefull to have a plan of it as well as a prospect as for the acco*un*t on't in Dr. Lister's Letter.


Having taken a sufficient view of the **Gyant's Cawsey**, we mounted again in order to go to **Colrain**. We rid here a good way along the North Shore on great sands, where I am 



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told are Warrens of a prodigious Length of Excellent Rabets. About three mile from ye Cawsey you come to a Fameous old place called **Dunluce**. This was an old Castle, formerly the seat of ye Earls of Antrim. Its situation is very romantick and out of the way. 'Tis built on a Large Rock, Entirely separated from the Land. It has been a vast Large Pile, and covers the whole Rock, so that you can spit out of most of ye Windows into the Sea, which is a Vast depth under you. However, the Natural or Artificial hollows in this Rock are such that I am told the sea beats into all the Cellars. In high tides 'tis Entirely surrounded with water, but the precipice by which 'tis divided from the shore is so terrible that this Castle seemes to me innacessible on all sides at the Lowest water, and was certain when in Repair a most inexpugnable place to the Instruments of War used in those dayes. They tell you here that one part of the house and Rock which hung over the sea, being the Kitchin and part of the Great Hall, fell down during a great Entertainm*en*t into the Sea, and Several Persons were lost. The only passage into it was by a Bridge over that precipice, of which there now Remains only one wall to go over by; but it was too windy weather when I was there to Venture this Passage without ye help of a Rope stretched across to hold by. The Court belonging to this house is on the Land, but I could not observe any remains of Gardens or Grown Trees, nor do I think it possible to have any such in this bleak situation. From hence 2 hours 1/2 brings you to **Colrain**, which is a good, large, compact, well-built Town, sittuated on the Fine River **Bann**. It looks like a clean, pretty Town as you go thro' it, but the Inn in which we Lay was the most drunken, Stinking Kennel that ever I smelt or saw. About a small mile up the River is the Famous Fishery of **Colrain**. This has nothing Extraordinary in its Contrivance, and has been wholly to an accident that it was ever made. There is here a fall in the River, and a Gentleman in the neighbourhood having occasion to bring Down some Timber down the River, makes at this fall Cut of a matter of 10 or 20 foot over, to Let his Timber down. The Cut Remains, and the Salmons, at those seasons of the year they go up and down the River, finding this the most Easy passage, Come up and Down in great Shoals, which the Fishermen observing, built here a Wire Enclosing some 40 foot in Length of this Cut, and with some Fish-boats that Fish at the River's mouth, takes the vast quantity of Fish that is here taken, which I think is not owing to any peculiar artifice in the Fishery, but the Love the Fish have to that water, and the great Quantity of Waters that are above, the whole River, which is no small one, much Larger than the **Liffey**, from **Colrain** to the great **Lough Neagh**, the whole Lough itself, and several Rivers that run into it. In the high season of the year the Fish pass here in such Shoals that the whole cut will be sometimes so full the Fish shall force one another above water. Insomuch that in one day (which the B*i*s*ho*pe of **Derry** has) there have been taken sometimes to the value of 400l, and we were assured 'tis actually sett for 200l p*e*r Ann*um*. From a Hill the Road here passes over going to **Derry** we have a fine Prospect of the River and Town below the Road, and of a pretty Improvem*en*t of one Mr. Jackson's joyning the Town. This River has between **Colrain** and the Lough two very narrow falls, which in Winter do not Discharge near so much water as the Rains make, which causes the Lough to overflow some 1,000s of Acres. This might be helped, I hear, for 5 or 6,000 pounds, so as to make the River navigable also to the very Lough to boats of 30 or 40 Ton.


Sunday.
  

From this to near **Newtown**, which is half-way to **Derry**, is all a most Excellent, new, artificially-made Cawsey in dismall, wild, boggy mountains. It runs for Some miles in an Exact Straight Line, and it makes a pretty figure to see a work so perfectly owing to Art and Industry in So wild a place. 'Twill cost 600l. We arrived at **Newtown Lemnavaddy**, where **Mr. Connelly** lives, in about 4 hours. **Newtown** is a very clean, English-like Town, a Burrough, well planted with English and Scotch Inhabitants. **Mr. Connelly** is here building a Park, which will be Extreamly beautifull and well watered by the River that runs thro' the Town, which **Mr. Connelly** told me will sometimes swell so as entirely to cover a Bridge over it in this place, which I could not Esteem Less than 30 foot from the Water. There is here gathered a kind of black Slate on the Rocks of **Magilligan**, which they tell me is found to be an Excellent Medicine in Several disorders. Some other Natural Curiosities are here talked of, but none very Remarkable. They tell you of Solomon's Porch, which by the description I could Learn to be no more than an odd figured Rock on the sea shore; of a clock maker in this Countrey that has made several attempts for the Perpetual Motion; of Mr. MacSwyne's Gun in County **Donnegal**, which, as I hear, is a hole in the Cliffs of the Rocks from whence there constantly issues a Considerable noise And wind by the beating of the waves below, Insomuch as to be able sometimes to return with considerable violence a Stone when you throw it down into it. They shewed me here some very round Stones found in great Quantityes in a Hill called **Bullet Hill**, in ye C. **Derry**. At **Mr. Connelly**'s we stayed all Monday.




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p.159


Tuesday.
  

We were Invited to Dine with **Major Gen*era*l Hamilton**, who lives at a place called [space left blank] within 2 miles of **Newtown**, on the Road to **Derry**. **Mrs. Hamilton** here told me of a very famous Well in **Enishowen**, in C. **Donnegall**, which is a Vast Peninsula of Land between **Loughfoile** and **Swilly**, all belonging to [space left blank] called Mallinwell. Here the sick come from all parts to be cured by going into it, yet has the Waters of it no particular virtue, for it seems to be only a hollow in a Rock where one may sit and Let the Waves beat clear over you. However, the Coldness of the water has surely had good effects. She told me that she had been in't several times, but has not found much benefit. From hence, we went, after Dinner, thro' a good, pleasant countrey, and a small village called **Muff**, to **Derry**. Almost all the way from **Colrain** to **Derry** you travell on the Land belonging to the Corporations of London, to whom it was given by Patent for planting Colonyes and building these two Towns. From **Newtown** you have the great Bay called **Lough Foile** to the Right; and here, as we travelled, it being Low Water, we saw the great shell Banks which last for 6 or 8 mile here, and are in no likelyhood of being Exhausted, tho' the Boats are continually at work to carry them away for Manure. This being almost the only Manure used within 30 mile from Scotland, they would willingly give a Boat of Coal for as much Shells, but these are more valuable.


Wednesday.
  

**Derry** is situated of a steep hill formed by a Turn in the River **Foile**, which half surrounds it, and washes the suburbs for a great way; it is here so great a River that they have not yet made a Bridge over it.


It so [happens] that there is no getting into the place from **Colrain** but by Boat, of w*hi*ch there are one or two constantly in use. However, the Town spreads, so that there are a few good houses got on **Colrain** side the River.


**Derry** is a good, Large, Compact, well-built Town. The old houses have Suffered much by the Siege of it, as well as ye Inhabitants by the Famine caused there. Yet I am assured, by Persons then in the Town, that this much talked of Siege ammounted to no more than a firm blockade. The Irish army Lay Incamped on opposite Hills at one side, while a Boom stretched across the River hindred help from abroad. Neither do I hear that [there] were ever any regular aproaches made but once, when they took a Small height, which indeed commands the Town at the side called Wind Mill hill; and even this they had not in possession, but were repulsed in 6 hours' time. However, the Artificial strength of this place is so litle, the Wall and Ditch so old and out of repair, and so ill provided with Artillery, rather in a worse condition than **Galway** or **Lymerick**, that I could scarce believe any Army could appear before it without reducing it. As to ye Famine, upon enquiry they tell me that there were Indeed no provisions to be bought or gotten in the Town for a Considerable time, so that all the Strangers who had come in to take Sanctuary there, were reduced to miserable difficulties; but the settled people of the Town, who foresaw things, and had opportunities of Laying Stores in beforehand, were in a much more Easy Condition. The compactness of this Town and **Colrain** I take to be owing to their having been built at once by the Londoners. They have a handsome, well-adorned Cathedral Church here, built on the Ruins of their old Cittadel; a good, handsome Town House, built by King William and Queen Mary; and also a handsome Large Free School, with a good house for the Master, and a Large Chamber above for a Library. This is now building; when Finished, the Books will be placed in't, which are a Collection of Divinity and Cannon Law Books, with some History, given by W*illia*m, Late Lord B*isho*pe of **Derry**, now B*isho*pe of **Dublin**. The Houses are many of them good, new-built houses. Since the Siege, however, it does not seem to be a place of much business, Riches, or Trade. Severall of the Inhabitants have several litle pretty Improvements near the Town, particularly the **Dean of **Derry****. **Dean Bolton** shewed me a place of his called [space left blank], about two miles from Town, w*hic*h is pretty enough, and lyes halfway to **Culmore Fort**, which we went to view, or rather its Ruins, being entirely rased; in the Rubbish there are yet two or three pieces of Cannon. This Fort stood on the Banks of the River, nearer the sea than **Derry**, at a narrow part, so as to command the Passage. The Boome was stretched very near this place, nearer the Town, under the Cannon of the Fort; however, they found means to break thro' it, and thereby Relieved the besieged. We Lay in **Derry** at **Mr. Norman**'s, an Ingenious man, An Alderman of the Town, and were Civilly Entertained at the B*isho*pe's and Dean's. We Stayed here till Thursday.


Thursday.
  

After Dinner we went along the Fine River **Foile**, thro' an open sort of Countrey, for about 4 hours, and arrived at **Liffard**, which is a very nasty, ugly Town, the County Town of **Donnegall**. Across the River lyes **Strabane**, w*hi*ch is Somewhat better Town in **Tyrone**, belonging to **L*or*d Abercorn**, who has here something of the Linnen Manufacture.




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p.160


Friday.
  

We left **Strabane**; two hours brought us to **Newtown Steward** , a small village belonging to **L*or*d M*ount* Joy**; two more, thro' a very woody Countrey, to **Omagh**, which is but a small ordinary Town For the County Town of **Tyrone**. From hence, thro' a wild Countrey enough, to **Clogher**. Here we lay at the B*isho*p's house, tho' he was abroad. This is a Burrough, but a most miserable one, having not above three or four houses in it, and not even the remains of any one, tho' 'tis certainly a very antient See.


Saturday.
  

Left **Clogher**, and came in about four or five hours by a Short way thro' the miserablest wild uncultivated mountains that can be seen to **Monaghan**, which is a very pretty, thriving Village — a great many new and handsome houses. **S*i*r Alexander Cairns**, to whom the Town and adjoyning Estate belongs, has a very pretty Improvement making near the Town. Round **Monaghan** is a very pleasant Improved well Inclosed Countrey. From hence we went to **Castleblaney**, which is a Small Village and Seat belonging to the **Lord Blaney**, in a pleasant woody Situation near a fine Lough, Here we lay at a Tolerable Inn. From hence,


Sunday,
  

Thro' **Ardee** to **Knouth**, and from thence,


Tuesday,
  

Home.














